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Step One. Make a simple 3 sided jig (top-side-bottom) put
your pane spacers in to where you want them, in the pic it is the 3
pieces of styrene. Cut a top & bottom, 2 sides & 5 window
horrizontal pane pieces. The pane pieces are a craft stick same size as
a match stick. Where all the joins are drill an over-size hole in the jig
so when gluing the excess goes down the hole with it not sticking to the jig,
it makes getting the frame out alot easier!!! Assemble & glue into
place, clamp the 3 jig sides then push a straight edge piece of timber up against the 4th
side & weight it til it dries. I left mine over night so I could go
onto the next step while another one was in the frame jig. ( so I got
one window finished in 1 hour each day)
Step Two. The vertical pane pieces are all done free hand
with what ever spacing required as pictured, all this was glued on a flat
piece of aluminium.
The outside casings are glued onto the frame with a sill glued onto the
bottom. I haven't given any measurements as each set of windows for
certian buildings are all different so what ever the project there will
be a window for it!
I got a set of alloy rollers 10 to
15 years ago
from a fellow modeller who was going
out of G so got them out & modified
them to take 0.5-0.75mm styrene.
I cut the sheet about 3.5 inches wide
& about 300mm long so it goes through
the rollers easily, while rolling apply
a little heat from a heat gun/hair dryer
to soften the styrene a bit. Once it passes
through once turn it over & pass through
again. Once you have a large corrugated
sheet place between 2 flat surfaces
& apply some weight to keep flat,
once 10 or 15 minutes have passed you
can cut your sheets to size by cutting
down the corrugation to the width
you require then square off the ends
as no matter how careful you are it may
come out the rollers with a bit of an angle.
Once cool I have found that it stays
true to its new shape & is more robust
then the can option. But having said
that this method is for an indoor building
,but I do have a steel girder bridge
that is painted styrene & has been out
side 12 years. This is my preferred method
as I can glue the sheets together &
know that they will stayed glued as well
as pinning them. Below Left; Passing the styrene through the
rollers with the heat gun providing heat. Below Right; Cutting
the end of the sheet square.
Washouts & Hand-Rail Stanchions!
Left; To the top of the picture is a standard small split pin, now
we have to get the eye of the pin to a more rounded shape. The way I do
it is squeezing below the eye with pliers then pushing a piece of the to
be handrail in the eye & crimp again below the eye with pliers, last
but not least tap all arouund with small hobby hammer to achieve the
finished result. Above Right; Boiler wash-outs are made from
pop-rivets, remove the stem of the rivet then machine (or file) the head
as thin as you need it. drill a hole bigger then the existing hole 3mm
deep to form a step for the false bottom to sit on. Use a hole punch to
cut out false bottom & glue in place, cut a piece of hex or square
to glue on the false bottom in the centre & there you have it a
A close up of the front handrail detail!!
Irrigation in 1:24
was only a matter of time that I bought my work home with me!!! I work
for R X Plastics which make the K-Line Irrigation system & is my job
to process & make up the orders so thought why not model them. I
started to look around for something the right size & ended up in
Spot Light in Christchurch. I purchased a bag of 20 wooden beeds now off
to the workshop! Below Left; Had to machine off 4mm top &
bottom then machined out the centre, glued a 1mm styrene bottom on the
pod then drilled the side holes for the pipe to go through. I used black
hat elastic for the pipe as it can sit in any configeration on a
display. Below Right; The finished result, these was on the club
layout at the show with a 4 wheeled motor bike at the front to look like
they were being shifted, surprising how many commented,on
Bridge gets Attention!
walk way on No2 bridge has finally done its dash, it was untreated
plywood so has lasted very well, at least 7 or so years! This time I
used black plastic which I cut into strips, I had to pin the strips as
well as glue them for extra strength. I then weathered them with some
brown water based paint to take away the plastic look!
Left; A before shot of the damage time has done! (not to mention
the new puppy who thinks she is a train)
Right; The finished result, time will tell.
recently upgraded our main control system for main line heavy
train running to the new Aristo-Craft Train Engineer which I might
add is fantastic with great control of your trains. We needed a
small electrical box to house the reciever, so down to the
Warehouse we go & bought a self sealing click clack box for a
couple of dollars, job done! Below; A shot of the finished
result up & working.
Trains Turnout Fix-up!
Trains make a fantastic turn-out, AFR has 4 of these in operation
in the shed on the mainline, 2 years ago a screw worked loose so
pulled up 2metres of track either way of it to get access to the
under side & replace the screw. Thinking this was a one off
problem no other precautions were taken.
the end of the September Club Day run I noticed the same problem
had occured again this time a different turnout at the oppisite
end of the loop, New Zealand Rail fish plates save the day as I
just needed to slide them back to release the join to lift out the
turnout to access the underside & the screw was replaced.
the problem was to stop this happening again, I could not glue
them with anything as it has a jumper wire running to it, so I
came up with the spacer idea.
Left; The 2 red dots are where the screws are positioned, I
thought if I made packers high enough to just touch the head of
the screw it would stop them un-screwing. The packers (Orange
Dots) are made from scrap styrene & all 4 turnouts had
different height packers so do each one seperartely. Above
Right; A side on shot of the packer in place, it is secured
with a good supa-glue & pinned into the base board as well.
theory this should work, but if nothing else it has high-lighted a
small problem that can be fixed before installing this great
product from USA Trains.
In May 2010
the Bachmann chassis of F72 finally gave up the ghost after a
running life of ups & downs of reliability. It was decided to
have ago at building our own chassis, this is a first for the AFR
so the methods used could be totally different & quite basic
as I have used bits from scraped locos & materials that I have
obtained from different sourses ;-)
the chassis is constructed out of 32mmX30mm aluminium door
channel. Above Middle; all the axle holes, power pick-up
holes etc have been drilled & the bottom runners (the curve
pieces) have been cut off. 4mmX4mm spacers hve been added these
were drilled & tapped with machine screws with the heads filed
off. Above Right; a clear view of the underside with
spacers in place.
close up of the crank pin, these had to be added as the wheels
were only spoked with-out crank pins. This was done by filing a
slot in the pin & slipping over the spoke with a collar to
hold in place while the glue set. Above Middle; motor
& wiring are all in place. Above Right; under-neath
shot showing the bachmann pick-ups in place, the bearings used are
nylon so will be interesting to see how the wear!
F72 on its test run after major work on her chassis, I am very
pleased with the result as this is my first attempt at chassis
work, but time will tell!!